Now I am in the middle of my winter training, i often find myself training on the stationary or spin bike in the gym. In order to maximize my time spent training indoors I’m a big fan of using a heart rate monitor to both help structure my training as well as track my work load.

While I tend to use my Garmin Edge 800 for outdoor rides as well as indoor rides on my turbo trainer, I was recently in the market for a cheap, reliable and functional heart rate monitor to use in the gym and for the occasional run. After much research I ended up buying the Polar FT2 heart rate monitor watch.

Polar FT2 Wrist Watch Unit

Below is my review of this unit after a few weeks use. As with all the reviews here at Century Training i’m not being paid for this review and endeavour to be as honest as possible.

In The Box

In the box you get the wrist watch unit, the chest strap transmitter and a small instruction manual. Here are how the specs line up.
Key Specifications:

  • Battery Life: Approx. 2 years
  • Battery Type: CR2025
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Weight: 33 grams
  • Cost: from $60

The whole premise of this unit is it’s simple functionality. There are many more expensive heart rate monitors out there that have many more features however the FT2 is aimed at the lower end of the market. The FT2 aims to provide the core functions you’d expect from a pulse monitor alongside clean simple design.

As you can see below the FT2 is incredibly light, weighing in at a meagre 33 grams.

Polar FT2 Weight

Build Quality

I’ve used Polar monitors before (namely the cycling specific CS300) and found reliability to be very good, no matter how badly I treated it. So far the FT2 seems to be responding the same.

The strap is made from polyurethane and the back of the unit is made from stainless steel to protect mechanism. As you’d expect from a sports watch the FT2 is water resistance to 30m. In reality this means the unit is suitable for bathing and swimming.

The Transmitter

Polar FT2 Transmitter
The transmitter is made of fabric (back half) and soft plastic (transmitter and sensor part). It clips together easily by simply connecting the the two plastic ends. These plastic ends remove the problem of metalic snap joints corroding up after lots of use – an issue with earlier Polar models.

Polar FT2 Strap Clips

The manual advises you to moisten the sensors prior to working out in order to help the sensors to pick up your pulse. However i’ve tested this quite a bit and found the transmitter works fine without doing this. On the whole the strap is comfortable to wear and easy to adjust.

 

Ease of Use

On the plus side I love the fact that during a workout you can scroll through the different screens (workout duration, heart rate etc) by simply bringing the unit up close to the sensor on the heart rate strap. This means you’re not fiddling around with both hands mid workout. Combined with the large display this makes the FT2 very user friendly  during a workout.

The flip side comes when trying to adjust the units settings, date or time having only one button means you’re faced with a laborious task of scrolling through various menus in order to get to the data you want to adjust. While I found this initially frustrating, once set up as you wish, you should rarely need to make changes.

 

The Menus

Obviously the menu structure is limited, particularly as the navigation is restricted by the unit having just one button. Pressing the button when in the default time mode scrolls through the various menus as follows:

1. Time mode – Displays the time, day and date.

2. Exe – Records your data as you exercise.

3. File – Displays the last stored training session data.

4. Zone – Allows you to set you target heart rate limits. You can set audio alarm when you’re out of the zone.

5. Time – Used to set the current time.

6. Date - Used to set the cuurrent date.

7. User – Used to set your age.

 

Performance

So far so good. I’ve been using this device for a few weeks and have not had a problem. Common problems with other monitors are usually issues with the transmitter and receiver dropping connection. I’ve not experienced any issues at all.

The unit stores data from just the last workout you’ve recorded so you’ll need to record your workout data after each session. Data recorded is the length of the workout, average heart rate, max heart rate and date of the workout.

The light weight of the unit means it doesn’t get in the way while you workout. Despite this the wrist watch seems fairly resistant to scratches and bumps. I’ve dropped mine a couple of times and it still looks like it’s just come out of the box.

Polar FT2 Summary

Advantages:

  • Cost
  • Polar Reliability
  • Large Display
  • Hands free scrolling
  • Simplicity

Disadvantages:

  • Only store last workout
  • Single button makes changing setting a bit laborious

This little unit does exactly what it promises. It offers a cheap relaible way to monitor and record your heart rate during exercise. Of course there are limitations (such as the limited memory size) however you must remember that this is an entry level heart rate monitor. If you’re looking for bells and whistles, look elsewhere. This is a functional, reliable unit and one i’d definitely recommend.

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Whether your riding in a race, sportive, audaux or century ride there are always times when you need or want to ride more economically. In order to finish your chosen ride strongly you’ll need to carefully manage your energy output in the earlier parts of the race.

In this post i’ll look at some ways you can improve the efficiency of your riding so that you can approach the end of your ride with some extra gas in the tank.

Control Your Pace

Probably the most important aspect of economical riding is the pace you ride at. On any endurance event such as a century  ride your aim should be to get to the finish as quickly as possible without blowing up on the way. As a result the pace you ride at, particularly in the first 2/3rds of the ride is crucial.

It is imperative to not start off too quick, run out of energy and suffer miserably in the final third. You should aim to finish your race strongly but feeling fatigued. Getting it just right take time and practice. Take some time in training rides to monitor your pace through metrics such as speed, heart rate or perceived effort.

In virtually every century ride, sportive or etape there will be a number of riders that allow the adrenalin of the big day get to them and start off too quickly. It may be incredibly hard to let them ride off in top the distance, leaving you behind pedaling away at what can seem a guiltily slow pace however there is a good chance you’ll pass them in 70 miles time lying on the verge, devoid of energy.

In my longer rides i always aim to ride the second half slightly faster than the first. Doing so enables me to reduce the risk that i’ll bonk part way through the ride. Come up with a strategy before your big ride and make sure you stick to it, no matter what the riders around you are doing.

 

Drafting

It is generally accepted that drafting a line of riders can save you up to 25-30% of you energy. Drafting behind a big group of riders (that you often get on century rides) can save you up to 40%. Therefore if you are looking to ride economically it is crucial to use drafting to your advantage and share much of the workload with your fellow riders.

When riding behind other riders the air pressure is lower, meaning you need to expend less energy to maintain the same speed as them. The bigger the bunch you are following the greater the effect. Just be sure to take your turn at the front of the group to avoid offending anyone!

Personally I try to not draft too much when out on training rides with friends, instead allowing them to draft behind me more. The reason is that I prefer the psychological advantage of knowing that i am working harder than them during training rides. Come race day when we all draft the same amount i know i should have more in the tank than them!

 

Pedaling Efficiency

Developing an efficient pedal stroke is another great way to increase the efficiency of your riding. Using a smooth, rhythmic, round motion as opposed to pulling up and down on the pedals with brute force will undoubtedly help you ride more efficiently.

One give away of an inefficient technique is when your upper body sways from side to side and your hips bounce up and down with each stroke. If you can head to the gym (or put a mirror in front of your turbo trainer) and assess your technique. Alternatively ask a ride partner to assess the movement in your upper body. Your head, shoulders and hips should be very still while pedaling.

Other great ways to improve your pedaling efficiency are to rides a fixed gear bike or to perform some one legged drills in the gym. To do these simply pedal on a stationary bike with a high cadence using only one leg – remove your spare leg from the pedal and place it over the axle. This will force your legs to work on the upstroke as well as the down stroke, improving the overall power output.

 

Position on the Bike

When riding along on flat terrain the main thing we are trying to overcome is air resistance (see the point above about drafting). However when we ride up hills, due to our slower speed the negative effects of air resistance are greatly reduced. Despite this it is more efficient to remain seated while climbing where possible.

In addition look at how time trialists focus on their body position to improve their aerodynamic efficiency. By lowering your riding position (ride more on the drops, less on the bars) can make quite a bit of difference when you’re riding over a hundred miles. Much of the success Lance Armstrong had in the Tour de France was down to improving his position on the bike and dominating time trials.

Aerodynamic Cycling Positionimage by puliarf

As always, adjusting  your bike setup should be done in small increments in order to avoid efficiency. By riding in a lower position you’ll need to have a stronger core and back muscles so maybe add some cross training such as yoga to your training routine.

 

Carry Less Weight

It is easy to go out and spend hundreds if not thousands of dollars on expensive new kit with the aim of reducing the weight of your bike. Think about how it would feel if you had to carry 3 x 1kg bags of sugar strapped to your back next time you went out for a training ride. Obviously 3kg can big a big difference so consider whether you can shed some weight from either you or your equipment.

Most of us would get far more value by improving our diet and cutting back on the alcohol and losing some excess weight we are carrying round rather than upgrading our bikes. Not only will losing weight make you lighter, if you do it via a sensible healthy diet you’ll end up being a much more efficient rider as a result.

 

Cadence

There is no hard and fast rules when it comes to cadence. Different riders have different styles. Lance Armstrong was renowned for his high cadence pedaling style while his arch rival Jan Ullrich used to mash huge gears at a very low cadence.

However as a general rule when pedaling at a higher cadence will take more strain away from the legs and place it on your bodies cardio vascular system. In your training experiment with different cadences to see what works best for you.

 

Tyre Pressure

The higher the pressure the less the rolling resistance. As a general rule I tend to run my tyres at about 120 psi in the summer (slightly less in the wet for added grip). Check the recommended pressure of the tyres you’re using and remember that the higher the pressure the quicker you’ll go.

 

Avoid Braking

Obviously  you should avoid slowing down unnecessarily while riding in order to avoid having to expend energy getting back up to speed. Try to focus more of your attention further up the field in order to anticipate changes in speed due to road conditions or other riders movements.

If you’ve ever ridden a fixed gear bike you’ll understand how anticipating whats happening in the road in front of you can help enormously to keep your pedaling smooth and consistent.

 

Maintain Your Bike

There’s no point in you pedaling efficiently if your bike is holding you bike. Ensuring your chain is tight, well lubricated and your gears are properly adjusted can add crucial efficiency to your riding.

 

Maintain Your Bikeimage credit

Burn Fat Not Carbs

When you ride at low intensities your body burns more fat than carbohydrates. Because the body can only store a certain amount of carbohydrates if we ride too fast for too long we’ll end up in a carbohydrate deficit and our performance will drop significantly.

By incorporating periods of low intensity base training into your training you’ll train your body to burn more fat than carbs. Over time this will mean you’ll be able to ride faster for longer before you hit the pain barrier, or in other words your cycling will become much more efficient.

 

 

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